If you love wildlife, flowers and colour then this pattern will hopefully appeal to you!
I am loving every minute designing this pattern and have tryed to get in a lot of different elements to add interest. There are birds, dragonfly’s, snails and hedgehogs as well as a resident badger, bunny and squirrell!
Nestled in between the little critters are plenty of wildflowers and mushrooms as well as leaves and acorns. There is a nice variety of stitches so it will hopefully appeal to lots of happy stitchers out there.
Not sure when this will be ready but I will let you know as soon as it is!
Garden Glory – the latest StitchDoodles Design has been many months in the making and is now all stitched up and ready to go…
The Sampler style pattern features a variety of beautiful flowers including Tulips, Daisies and Pansies…
Lots of lovely greenery is intermingled between the blooms with the addition of pots and snails to add to the charm.
Garden Glory is a sampler pattern so there are lots of interesting stitches making up the individual elements including some basic stitches like Chain, Stem and Satin as well as some slightly more challenging (but still very achievable) such as Buttonhole, Trellis and Fishbone.
The Pattern is a 10 page PDF with full colour photos and lots of easy to follow instructions. This will be a fabulous project to get you in the mood for spring and give you the perfect excuse to try out some gorgeous colours.
You can Purchase the pattern from my shop here. You can use all sorts of colours in your stash for this one as it will look great in any colourway!
Woven Picot are traditionally used in Lace work and I have shied away from this one in my work – no idea why! Let’s give it a go..
There are several different types of woven picot so let’s start with a version that is stitched to the cloth rather than detached as you very often see.
Stitch a triangle as above. Start at A and go down at B, Come back at C and go back in at D. Then stitch a central line up the middle coming out at E and back in at F.
After you have pulled your thread though at F, come back out where the arrow indicates and then start weaving your thread in and out, completing each row in this way to fill the Picot.
Once you have weaved all the way to the bottom, take the thread through to the back in the centre and secure at the back.
Now you are able to do a simple Woven Picot, experiment with different threads to see the difference it makes.
You can also try a detached Woven Picot Stitch…
Use a Pin to act as an anchor for your weaving. Pop the pin in your fabric and then come up at A and take the thread around the pin and then back in the fabric at B. Come back up at C, and again take the thread around the back of the pin – this time do not take the thread to the back, instead you are going to start weaving it back and too as you did before to fill in the shape.
Once you have filled in, take the thread to the back of the work and secure off.
Remove the pin and you have a lovely detached Woven Picot!
I did a few of these over my doodle cloth to try and perfect them and they got better each time! If you google woven Picot there are some gorgeous flowers you can create with this stitch, definately one to use for something special.
There are lots of stitch ‘doodles’ on the cloth now, can’t wait to have a look through my books and pick another one for next week!
Whilst working on my latest design I decided it would look really nice worked in a square shape and then mounted on a canvas board when finished. My plan was to just stitch the design in a hoop and move it around as I went but I soon realised I would need to think again.
Constantly removing the fabric and rearranging it in the hoop was not only annoying (!) but it made the whole piece look more ragged and the stitches that were getting squashed (even though I was as careful as I could be) didn’t look as good as they could have.
I was looking around for alternative frames for stitching the whole piece that would be inexpensive, easy to do, and provide a nice stitching experience whilst seeing the whole design! I also wanted it to fit in the Seat frame I already had so it had a lot to live up to.
Stretcher bar frames seemed to be the thing that ticked all the boxes so I decided to start the design again and I am so glad I did. For a little bit more effort than popping in a hoop, the bar frame for me has been a game changer.
A Stretcher Bar Frame is basically wooden bars which fit together to form a frame that you attach your embroidery to for stitching.
You can get the bars in all sorts of sizes to make lots of different frame sizes – each set is sold as a pair so you need 2 sets to make a frame! These Siesta bars are fitted together by the interlocking edges.
I also wanted to try the ‘Elbesee Universal Craft Frame’ – which has plastic corner connectors to fit them together rather than interlocking edges. (again sold in a pair so you need to get 2 pairs to make a frame!)
So, which one to choose. Purely as I liked the rigidity of the Elbesee Bars, I decided to go with this – as you can see in the photo – the Siesta ones do move so its personal choice. Once your fabric is tacked on I doubt it makes much difference.
Once you have got your frame, all you need is your fabric and some pins to tack it on to the frame with.
Make sure the fabric extends outside of the frame by at least 2 inches on each side.
Trace your chosen design on to your fabric prior to putting on the frame.
To prevent fraying, you can edge the fabric with masking tape or cut with pinking shears.
Place your design face down on a clean flat surface and place the bar frame on the back- make sure the design is central in the frame as best you can.
Pull the top edge of fabric over the frame bar (making sure your design stays central) and put your first pin in the middle of the bar. Pull the fabric over and continue to pin along the bar from the centre outwards on both sides.
Once all the pins are along the top bar you can pull the fabric nice and tight on the bottom edge and pin in the same way from the centre out – keep the tension nice and tight and even. You should have all your pins on the top and bottom bars as in the photo above.
Next, you need to pin the 2 side bars. I found it easier to pin each side in the middle first to provide some tension and then put the remainder of the pins in one side and then the other.
As you can see from the photo above, I have kept the tension really nice and tight and the fabric is lovely and taut.
Here’s how it looks from the front…
Now you are all set to get stitching.
Here’s how it looks part way through stitching – it’s clean, taut, I can see it all for colour choices and best of all I am not messing around taking it in and out of a hoop – yay!
Well hello again, if you are new to the Doodle Cloth series then take a look at the first post which tells you how to get started… Creating a doodle cloth.
This week, Lets try the Sorbello stitch…
This stitch gets its name from a town in Italy called Sorbello, from which it originated.
It can be used in lines or curves and to fill shapes very much like the cross stitch.
Here’s how the stitch is composed…
Bring your thread up at 1 and down at 2 to create a straight stitch. Then come up at 3 (a stitch length down from 1).
Bring your needle up & around and take if down under the straight stitch (4) and over the thread that came out at 3 (5) – pull this through to form a loop around the straight stitch…
Do the same again to form a second loop (or knot)…
Then finish off by taking the thread to the back (a stitch length down from 2).
This forms a cross shaped stitch with a knot in the central area. You can play around with this and pull the loops tighter to form a more cross shape, or looser for a knot centre to be more apparent. Here’s a few on my doodle cloth…
This really is a more fancy version of the simple cross stitch and would look lovely done neatly (!) in rows, circles or to fill geometric shapes.
Next week I am going to pick something tricky tricky tricky to challenge us all!!!